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Arugula Guide

Here's our complete guide for growing arugula greens in the Fieldhouse — follow these steps, reference the video and FAQs, and you'll do great. We're rooting for you!

REHYDRATE COIR PUCKS | DAY 1

  1. Open coir pack and transfer both pucks into a standard size mixing bowl
  2. Using included Leath measuring cup, pour two cups of water over the coir discs
  3. Wait 5 minutes to allows coir fibers to expand and fully absorb water
  4. After pucks have sucked up all water, begin to work coir with hands
  5. Break up any clumps and continue mixing until coir has been fully rehydrated and loosened
  6. Once coir has been thoroughly mixed up, transfer into top tray with holes

PLANTING | DAY 1 — NO GROW LIGHT NEEDED

  1. Open arugula seed pack and transfer to dry Leath measuring cup for easy distribution
  2. Carefully begin to spread arugula seeds across rehydrated coir, paying special attention to evenly disperse and avoid any clumping of seeds — even distribution helps ensure maximum germination and yield size
  3. Using included spray bottle, lightly mist seeds until visibly damp, but not soaked
  4. Cover seeds with germination lid and press down gently, ensuring seeds have made contact with grow medium
  5. It’s often helpful to make note of the day you planted seeds to track growth progress

GERMINATION PHASE | DAYS 2-3 — NO GROW LIGHT NEEDED

  1. Seeds should remain covered by the germ lid during this phase
    1. Note: While not required, you may lift the germination lid once per day to visually check for seed sprouting and coir hydration levels. Arugula seed hulls become gelatinous as they loosen up and absorb water so you may notice your seeds sticking to the germ lid — that's normal. Simply place lid back down and roots will connect with soil within 2 - 3 days. Read the Arugula FAQs below for more detail.
    2. If you do check on seeds during this phase and soil is looking dry, use spray bottle to spritz seeds from above — remember, soil should be damp, but not soaked.
  2. Once 85 - 90% of the tray has sprouted and early-stage leaves are beginning to form, remove germination lid and expose seedlings to grow light — utilize the Fieldhouse’s built-in timer for an automated schedule of 12 hours of continued light followed by 12 hours off

TO NOTE: There is no bottom watering required for arugula during germination. At this stage, it’s common for seeds to exhibit white, fuzzy hairs at the base of the stems, which are easily confused with mold — read our guide on ROOT HAIRS VS MOLD.

GROWTH PHASE | DAYS 4-14

  1. Inspect coir, and if starting to dry out, pour 1 cup (250 ml) of water into bottom tray via watering ramp using included measuring cup
  2. Continue to water as needed – typically once every 1 - 2 days — until harvest
  3. If soil is visibly soaked through, hold off on watering that day — VIEW OUR WATERING GUIDE
  4. Arugula greens will be ready to harvest once greens have reached 2 - 3 inches (50 - 75 mm) in height, or approximately 8 - 14 days after planting

PDF DIRECTIONS

KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      KNOW BEFORE YOU GROW      -      

ARUGULA FAQS

Arugula is worth its weight in spiciness. Use this green whenever you’re looking to amp up the pepper in whatever you’re cooking. Visit our RECIPE PAGE to get inspired and find your next dish.

We use certified organic, non-gmo Slow Bolt Arugula seeds.

The date printed on the back of our seeds packs is related to when we test our seeds for gemination rates. The date is not an expiration date. Seeds are living things so they will eventually lose viability over time, but in our heat-sealed packaging and when stored in a cool, dry place, seeds are shelf stable and will last for several years. 

Spent grow pads make great material for composting. Compost yourself or take to a local center that accepts food scraps and yard waste. View our guide on COMPOSTING GROW PADS.

Arugula microgreens tend to gather water (especially towards the center of the grow tray) and hold it just under the leafy canopy of greens. This can sometimes lead growers to think they've overwatered their greens, but this is perfectly normal. Continue to check the coir's saturation levels as your best indicator for when the arugula greens need watering.

Arugula seeds are mucilaginous seeds, meaning they create a gel "sack" around them when exposed to water. It's thought to be a result of their native habitat, where water can be scarce, and the seeds needed to hold onto as much moisture as possible to survive.

Because of this, arugula seeds tend to stick to the germination lid. So, while not required for arugula, if you decide to lift the lid and check on the seeds during germination, we recommend gently lifting just a few inches above the coir bed — enough to peek underneath, but not enough to remove completely and risk damage to the sprouting greens.

After days 2 - 3 the arugula greens will have worked their roots into the soil, making enough connection that you can fully remove the lid without the seeds sticking.

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